Country Clock Plans
MATERIALS: (all
parts are #2 pine, unless otherwise indicated)
QUANTITY
SIZE
DESCRIPTION
2
3/4" x 5 3/4" x 11"
Top A & Bottom B
2
3/4" x 4 3/4" x 14"
Sides C & D
1
3/4" x 8 1/2" x 14"
Front E
1
1/2" x 7 1/2" x 7 1/2"
Clock Face F
1
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 9 3/8"
Top Trim G
1
3/4" x 3" x 6 1/2"
Drawer Face H
2
1/2" x 2 1/2" x 6"
Drawer Front I & Drawer Back J
2
1/2" x 2 1/2" x 3 3/8"
Drawer Sides K & L
1
1/4" x 3 3/8" x 5 1/2" plywood
Drawer Bottom M
2
3/4" x 1 1/4" x 3 1/8"
Drawer Slides 0 & P
1
1" x 3/4" deep
Wooden Knob
4
1/8" x 1/2"
Wooden Hearts
OTHER MATERIALS:
- Quartz battery-operated 3/4" stem clock with 2 1/2"
minute hand
- Milk paint colors: Homestead House Latex "Waterloo Green" , "Buttermilk"
- Folk art colors: Delta Ceramcoat Tomato Spice Red, Coal Black
- Dark walnut stain
- Black gelled stain
- 6" clock face stencil, or copy face provided onto beige "parchment" paper
INSTRUCTIONS:
This clock is a simple, attractive project that gives you the opportunity to try an antique finishing process.
Become familiar with the details by examining the on-line photo at www.plansinwood.com/countryclock.html , illustration,
and materials list.
Step 1 - Begin
by cutting out all of the required parts.
Step 2 - Rout
the side and front edges of the top A and bottom B, with a Roman Ogee profile. Also rout all four sides of the
drawer front H.
Step 3 - The
inside faces of sides C and D require 1/4" deep x 3/4" wide dados to accept face E, as shown in the illustration.
The front edge of the dado should be 3/4" from the front of C and D. Rout a 1/4" cove on each side of
the front edges of parts C and D.
Step 4 - With
your saber saw, the front of the clock, part E, requires a 6 1/2" diameter hole, cut with its center 5"
from the top of part E. Round over the clock face hole with a 1/4" round over bit in your router. Also cut
the 2 5/8" x 6 1/8" opening for the drawer in part E, 1 1/8" from the bottom.
Step 5 - Cut
out top trim G using a scroll saw or band saw. This one has a heart cut out to match the four hearts on the clock
front. The template is below. Attach with glue and nails to the top of part A, 3/4" from the front edge. Be
sure that the routed edge of part A, faces down.
Step 6 - Assemble
the main clock parts by clamping part E in to the dados, and securing with nails. Do not apply glue, of the front
part may split with expansion and contraction. Glue and nail the tops A and B, as well as the drawer runners.
Step 7 - The
drawer parts fit together with 1/2" wide x 1/4" deep rabbets cut in the ends of the front and back of
parts I and J. Use your router or table saw for this process.
Step 8 - The
bottom of the drawer part M, is recessed into 1/4" x 1/4" deep rabbets cut into the bottom inside edges
of all drawer pieces.
Step 9 - Glue
and nail together the drawer pieces, and tack the bottom in place without glue. Screw the wooden knob N in place,
centered on part H. Center the drawer front on the assembled drawer box, and glue and clamp until dry. Test fit
and sand where needed if binding.
Step 10 - Clock face process 1: At your
local copy store, select a heavy bond, parchment style paper for an old look. Insert the paper in the drawer, place
the 6" clock face on the copier glass, and copy. For a worn look, you can lightly rub fine grit sandpaper
over the numbers, and they will wear off to your liking. Cut out a 7 1/2" circle of plywood or 1/2" pine,
to mount the clock face. Using spray glue, mount the clock face on the board. When dry, drill a 1/4" hole
centered on the face for the clock mechanism. Tack the clock face to the back of part E, after the clock has been
painted.
Clock face process 2:
Or, if you have found a 6" clock face stencil, stain the front surface of part F using a dark walnut penetrating
stain. After the stain is dry, paint the clock's face, with two coats of "Buttermilk" milk paint, or
an off-white latex semi gloss paint. When dry, lightly sand away enough paint so that some of the grain pattern
shows through. Center the stencil over the hole drilled in part F and secure the edges with masking tape. Using
a folk art stencil brush or a small paint brush with masking tape wrapped around the upper part of the bristles
to stiffen the brush, carefully dab up and down using very little paint. Wipe any excess paint on a piece of paper
before using it on the stencil. You may want to practice on a scrap piece of wood first. Once the numbers are dry,
rub them lightly with sandpaper along the grain. Rub them enough to show signs of wear, so that the stain shows
through the scratches.
Antiquing Process:
If you'd like to create an antique finish on your clock, here's a procedure you can try. Using the rough side of
a rasp, file the corners of the clock, drawer, and edges of the sides in random areas, leaving grooves and dents
which will fill with paint later. Lightly sand all rough edges to eliminate burrs and slivers, but do not sand
smooth.
Add character to the 1/2 wooden hearts by gently rasping away their edges. This will leave small grooves which
will collect paint and show when sanded lightly.
Using a 12" scrap of 1" x 2", screw six to eight drywall screws randomly through one end of the
stick. This distressing tool will allow you to make numerous "insect holes" in the clock at one time.
Be discriminate, but remember, some holes will fill with paint and disappear.
Using a hammer or other blunt tool, add a few dents to the edges, sides, and top of the clock area. Use a scratch
awl, saw, and other tools to make interesting distress marks in the wood. (Remember though, that a clock will not
show as much wear as a shelf would over time.)
Generously stain the exterior surfaces of the clock and drawer using a dark walnut penetrating stain. Be sure to
soak the project well, especially the insect holes.
Cover the stained areas of the clock with two coats of green milk paint. When dry, sand any distressed areas with
100 grit paper. Lightly sand the edges of the base and top, until some of the darkened wood shows through. Don't
worry about the scratches and worn areas on the paint, they'll disappear when a final coat of urethane is applied.
Coat the hearts with two coats of red folk art paint; then sand the edges slightly when dry. Glue the hearts onto
the front of the clock, as shown in the illustration.
Place the stencilled clock face, part F, in the back of the clock and nail it into position. Using a black gelled
stain, an old toothbrush, and a small scrap of wood about 1/4" wide x 6" long, "splatter" the
clock in random areas. Dip the brush slightly in the stain and gently draw the stick across the bristles toward
you. Practice on a piece of scrap wood first as it doesn't take much to overdo it. Let the "fly specks"
dry well - remember some will be thicker and take longer to dry than others.
Apply a coat of satin urethane to all painted surfaces, except the clock face if paper. This will bring out the
colors as well as accentuate the worn areas where the wood shows through. When dry, sand any spill over paint and
stain away from the back parts of the clock.
Assemble the clock parts, insert a battery, and set your clock on the mantle...it's time to relax.
